Destination Dubrovnik

A Note From Claire Brayford

“Those who seek paradise should come to Dubrovnik and find it.” So said playwright George Bernard Shaw, and with its distinctive terracotta-tiled roofs, dazzling azure waters, secret limestone alleyways and unhurried way of life, the ancient walled city is one of Europe’s most alluring destinations. These are the hidden gems to found in and around this UNESCO World Heritage site.”

Where to Stay

Sumratin Hotel

For five-star luxury with a great location, the Sumratin in popular Lapad Bay is the perfect sanctuary. Staying outside the Old Town is generally more restful, and this airy hotel overlooking the Adriatic is a short taxi drive away, so after a busy tour of the city walls, you can rejuvenate in the tranquil spa or lie back on cabana beds beside the rooftop infinity pool. There are nods to the city’s maritime history in the calming coastal palette, alongside a diverse range of restaurants; breakfast in the Dining Club, locally sourced à la carte dinner in the Sol restaurant or a patisserie or gelato in the Cukar cafe. Unwind and revive for the perfect pause.
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Hotel Kazbek

For a true taste of Dubrovnik, sidestep the well-trodden chain hotels and look for authentically restored private houses and intimate luxury villas. Once a summer retreat for Dubrovnik’s aristocracy, the characterful Hotel Kazbek, set in the marina, retains a sense of the historical grandeur of the city. Built in 1573 by one of the country’s noble families, it is brimming with atmosphere and period charm, with 12 classically designed and spacious rooms, complete with pelmets, panelling and coats of arms. The Croatian cuisine in the beautiful citrus-tree-filled courtyard restaurant is some of the best you will find, while you can enjoy cocktails on the terrace overlooking the yachts and escape the crowds.
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NINON

Follow a winding road overlooking the shimmering Adriatic you will hit upon Ninon, a well-hidden nine-room retreat offering elegant design and the warmest of welcomes. Perched on a hillside about 20 minutes from Dubrovnik, the intimate and refined setting created by architects Nino and Željko Katalinić (and now managed by their daughter Katarina and her husband Aleksandar) focuses on organic, minimalist design, with raw stone, natural wood and bespoke Balinese furniture, as well as the contemporary artwork of their son Ivan. The infinity pool overlooking the magnificent Elaphiti Islands is a highlight, as well as the mahogany bar where drinks are served well into the evening. Dine beneath grape vines as the sun sets on the Dalmatian Coast and relish life in the slow lane.
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Where to Eat & Drink

Local Dubrovnik

One of the hottest seats in the city is Local, an authentic, family-style Dalmatian dining experience featuring a traditional Peka dinner. Hosted by husband-and-wife duo Marija and Zlatko Papak, meat or fish is slow cooked under a bell-shaped lid and buried beneath hot embers – a technique that is 5,000 years old. Expect an evening full of flavour that’s not to be missed.

Restaurant Vapor at Hotel Bellevue

Set on a 30-metre-high cliff overlooking Miramare Bay, a sunset table at fine-dining venue Vapor is one of the highlights of Dubrovnik. Boasting sweeping panoramas of the coastline, you’ll enjoy deliciously diverse Mediterranean dishes paired with Croatian wines and by far the best view in town.

Restaurant Kasar

Just a 15-minute drive from Dubrovnik, Kasar in Zaton Veliki serves the most exceptional fresh fish in the region. Located in a 15th-century summer house on the water, it offers sought-after lobster and seafood – the tuna carpaccio is a must-order.

Restaurant Pjerin

The blissful scent of old pine trees and Mediterranean gardens wafts on the sea breeze at this serene restaurant, set on the terrace of the Villa Dubrovnik. Feast on tender fish caught by local fisherman, drink fine Croatian wine from nearby wineries and soak up the mix of culture, heritage and natural beauty.

M’arden Wine Bar

Wandering through the narrow stone streets of Dubrovnik’s Old City, if you are lucky you will stumble upon M’arden, a secret garden oasis in a quiet corner inside the city walls. Stop for coffee beneath the trees in the morning or relax over wine with tapas and great atmosphere in the evening.

Gianni

The spot for artisanal ice-cream in the city. Opened in 2020 by a local pastry chef, Gianni offers the best ice-cream (and cakes) in town – once you try it, you’ll come back every day.

Lady Pi-Pi

Another secret garden within the old city walls, this is a great spot for a quick bite beneath the vines. At the top of a flight of steps (expect them everywhere) visitors are rewarded with platters of fresh fish, seafood and grilled meat. But you can’t reserve a table so you might have to wait.

Grand Hotel Imperial

Soak up the luxury of this grand dame hotel just steps from the Old Town. Elegantly decorated by interior design gurus Goddard Littlefair, the buzzy Imperial Bar & Lounge is something of an institution for a late cocktail or a quick bite on the terrace. The hotel – which was created to serve passengers arriving on steamships touring the Adriatic – has hosted such notables as Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson, who danced in the gardens.

What to See

Trsteno Arboretum

Stroll beneath the cool green canopy at this arboretum, which dates back to the 15th century, then take a dip in the sea-water swimming pool built by the Romans, which is just a short walk away.

The Elaphiti Islands

An easy and unforgettable day trip: book a private tour of the picturesque archipelago or, for those on a budget, jump on one of the regular ferries. Visit Bowa on Sipan Island – a restaurant surrounded by fig and olive trees – and feast on the famous Mali Ston oysters, vegetables from the garden and Sipan Island olive oil.

Ljetno Kino, Lapad

Settle down with a large tub of popcorn at this outdoor cinema beneath the stars. Don’t forget to bring a blanket on cooler evenings.

Sokol Grad

While the 1,940m stone curtain surrounding the old city is Dubrovnik’s most celebrated landmark, there are other fantastic but lesser-known sights to discover. The medieval Sokol fortress, perched above the village of Dunave near Dubrovnik, has breathtaking views and fascinating historical significance.

Jović Lemon Gardens

Enjoy a refreshing glass of Limoncello or a slice of lemon tart among the 300 trees at this hidden, family-run lemon garden.

Park Orsula

With its spectacular setting, catching a concert at this cliffside outdoor venue is a holiday highlight. Watch out for the annual Summer at Orsula festival.

Glossus Humanus Shell Museum

Housed in a a Franciscan monastery in nearby Cavtat, explore the hidden world of molluscs and ocean treasures, as well as handmade jewellery in this private selection. Small but well worth a look inside.

Where to Shop

Clara Stones

Known for its protective powers and natural beauty, discover how sustainable, ethically sourced Adriatic red coral is transformed from raw branches into beautiful jewellery using ancient techniques at this boutique and workshop.

Slatko Kao Cukar

You’ll find handmade candles, ceramics and homeware in this colourful, family-run Croatian studio. Paint and personalise your own plates over a glass of wine or a Mimosa in the workshop.

The Pharmacy of the Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor

Filled with the scent of sage, mint and other medicinal herbs, this pharmacy in one of the oldest monasteries in the world is still crafting remedies from secret 200-year-old recipes that promise everything from youth to marital harmony. Stock up on the handmade, cold-pressed soaps and creams.

Terra Croatica

1. Pure Adriatic Sea salt, curated fine wines, native olive oils and truffles are some of the finds sourced from small local producers at this gift shop. Expect unusual treats like small-batch Dubrovnik liqueur or local honey.